M$ Sidewinder 3D Pro on USB
- SuperSheep
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Thanks Sheep.
Quick update: got the boards today (oops, that's already yesterday ) and built up two units. After about 8hrs debugging I found the problem .. Looks good tho, I'll build a few on sunday and take some pictures. Leaving for the FIRST regional competition tomorrow morning, be back on sat evening.
Quick update: got the boards today (oops, that's already yesterday ) and built up two units. After about 8hrs debugging I found the problem .. Looks good tho, I'll build a few on sunday and take some pictures. Leaving for the FIRST regional competition tomorrow morning, be back on sat evening.
[Note to KoolBear -- I moved C3 to the left of the oscillator. Was on AVCC, should be on VCC]
I built up units #3 & #4 today
This is how a unit looks like (that's what you will get)
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#3 is the header option, #4 is the DB15 option, here w/ some stuff you can add on
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The board is designed to fit into this box from RadioShack ($3.99, my local RS has them in the store). Note that you will have to cut/drill holes to have it fit.
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Box closed
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Here you see what I used to mount a header option board into my main computer
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Inside view
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Outside
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How the DB15 option can be put into the computer (see also the 2nd picture above)
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Outside again
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[*] Images recycled. Most can be found here.
I built up units #3 & #4 today
This is how a unit looks like (that's what you will get)
[*]
#3 is the header option, #4 is the DB15 option, here w/ some stuff you can add on
[*]
The board is designed to fit into this box from RadioShack ($3.99, my local RS has them in the store). Note that you will have to cut/drill holes to have it fit.
[*]
Box closed
[*]
Here you see what I used to mount a header option board into my main computer
[*]
Inside view
[*]
Outside
[*]
How the DB15 option can be put into the computer (see also the 2nd picture above)
[*]
Outside again
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[*] Images recycled. Most can be found here.
Re:
It should work w/ Linux or Mac OSX just fine if there is support for HID devices. No driver is needed for 98SE, ME, 2k or XP.Xamindar wrote:A question for us Linux descenters. Will this thing work under linux? Will it just work under the HID modules in linux? Are special drivers needed for it to work in Windows?
On a different topic, having two options is too confusing. So, here is what you will get:
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This version will be ready to roll out of the box. I would recommend to somehow protect it during operation tho. While working it should not be man/cat/whatnot-handled and it must not come into direct contact w/ metal (change on the desk, etc.)
There is the possibility for having the header option, I'll only create them if specifically asked for.
[*] Images recycled. Most can be found here.
I was just about to ask about all those different pics you posted; they all pretty much flew right over my head. One option = good for non-techies like me. So, when we do get these things, you'd recommend buying something like that RadioShack box to put them in? And will we need that USB extender cable that you showed as well, or any other cabling, for that matter? I'm just confirming all of this to be sure that, when they're shipped, I'll just be able to plug in the 3DPro on one side, plug it into a USB port on the other, and get rolling. If I'm under any misconceptions, please set me straight before it's too late.
- Fusion
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Gren, if the header option is the one shown in this img, I will take one of those...It will prob be the easiest for me. (Plug and Play) a question tho...
1. where can I pick up one of those USB cords that are in your pics?
Fus
1. where can I pick up one of those USB cords that are in your pics?
Fus
Re:
well it says "RadioShack" on it so I would assume you can get it at RadioShack. But I haven't been lately to check. Is that the one you are talking about?Fusion wrote: 1. where can I pick up one of those USB cords that are in your pics?
Fus
Like I said, I would recommend to somehow protect it during operation If you go for the box (best protection for having the converter outside the computer) keep in mind that you have to cut out holes for the connectors. If you aren't comfortable w/ that use an industrial strength ZipLock bagTop Gun wrote:So, when we do get these things, you'd recommend buying something like that RadioShack box to put them in?
You will need a USB A-B cable like this one. Any USB A-B cable will do, including the hillariousely expensive retractable one from RadioShack I used (because the cable is very flat). I saw one w/ a build-in LED at the dollar store the other day. The cheapest cable may be the one that's on your printer tho ..Top Gun wrote:And will we need that USB extender cable that you showed as well, or any other cabling, for that matter?
That is the DB15 option mounted on a slot cover. It's the lower one in this picture. That way is the easiest for having the converter inside the computer. The only problem is getting the A-B cable to the USB connector on the outside. I used the RadioShack retractable for that reason -- flat cable makes for a small hole.Fusion wrote:Gren, if the header option is the one shown in this img, I will take one of those...It will prob be the easiest for me. (Plug and Play)
My GF took on getting the packaging material together, I should have boxes in 3 days. As soon I got everything I need I'll start sending PMs w/ payment details (if I have units ready to ship ). Looks like s&h will be $6 (w/in US) so the whole thing comes to $31.
Re:
Looks like I might have to get handy with a Dremel; otherwise, I'm definitely sticking to the bag. I could always ask my dad to give it a shot; that could result in extreme amounts of amusement.Grendel wrote:Like I said, I would recommend to somehow protect it during operation If you go for the box (best protection for having the converter outside the computer) keep in mind that you have to cut out holes for the connectors. If you aren't comfortable w/ that use an industrial strength ZipLock bag
Unless that thing takes parallel, I don't think the cable from my printer will do much. Thanks for the info.You will need a USB A-B cable like this one. Any USB A-B cable will do, including the hillariousely expensive retractable one from RadioShack I used (because the cable is very flat). I saw one w/ a build-in LED at the dollar store the other day. The cheapest cable may be the one that's on your printer tho ..
- WarAdvocat
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Re:
Grendel: Looks Awesome! I can't wait! Thanks for all the hard work guys!
This mean you're gonna come back and teach us how to play BI3 the Hostile way?Hostile wrote:I am so excited I can hardly contain myself!!!!!!!!!
Gah, my back is killing me. I'm just not used to work hunched over anymore
For the curious, here's how a board is put together:
For the curious, here's how a board is put together:
- get all 24 different parts together, 10min
- bend the pins of Rs, Cs, and the ICs, 10min
- compile, program & test the software for the Mega8, 10min
- load the board, 30min:
- diodes
- resistors
- orange capacitors
- crystal
- ICs
- blue capacitors
- USB connector
- DB15 connector
- LED
- big capacitor
- visual check, 5min
- function test, 5min (if there are no problems ..)
- KoolBear
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This is exactly why I think you deserve a little compensation! Now add the time you will take to locate packaging, boxing it up, labeling and then the trip to the Post Office!
Gman you gotta get at least 5cents to cover all the time!
Hell we haven't added in the development time either!
I think you need at least 10$ each for the time hell man I wouldn't oppose 20$ to assemble/test/pack/ship
My 2 cents ...
KB
Gman you gotta get at least 5cents to cover all the time!
Hell we haven't added in the development time either!
I think you need at least 10$ each for the time hell man I wouldn't oppose 20$ to assemble/test/pack/ship
My 2 cents ...
KB
- WarAdvocat
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Thx, I'll gladly accept any donation.
I will not increase the price for the converter for various reasons, primarily I don't want any trouble w/ the IRS/INS . Also: Legal problems, like no FCC/CE approval (even tho it should exceed the requirements). Not lead free. PayPal wouldn't be free. I can't warrantee the converter (I'll try to fix any problems that creep up tho). People won't buy it for a higher price et c.
It's a hobby thing. If I would have gone to an engineering company (like the one I work for) those 40 boards would have cost me around $8000 instead of the $1000 material + time.
I'll be quite happy to get that debt of my CC and a few converters out of it
I will not increase the price for the converter for various reasons, primarily I don't want any trouble w/ the IRS/INS . Also: Legal problems, like no FCC/CE approval (even tho it should exceed the requirements). Not lead free. PayPal wouldn't be free. I can't warrantee the converter (I'll try to fix any problems that creep up tho). People won't buy it for a higher price et c.
It's a hobby thing. If I would have gone to an engineering company (like the one I work for) those 40 boards would have cost me around $8000 instead of the $1000 material + time.
I'll be quite happy to get that debt of my CC and a few converters out of it
Re:
Oh yes my friend. It does.......WarAdvocat wrote:This mean you're gonna come back and teach us how to play BI3 the Hostile way?
- WarAdvocat
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Ack ! I just found out that I can't receive PayPal CC payments w/o upgrading my account and pay fees This means that you can only send payments via PayPal balance or bank account. Sorry ..
PayPal wrote:Note: Personal Accounts cannot receive payments funded with a credit card. You must upgrade to a Premier or Business account before this payment will be credited to your account.
[..]
If you upgrade to a Premier or Business account, all your pending credit card payments will be completed. With your new Premier or Business account, you will receive a range of premium features, such as the ability to accept unlimited credit card payments. You must pay fees to receive money for a Premier or Business account. The fees on incoming payments are low - just 1.9% + $0.30 USD to 2.9% + $0.30 USD to receive payments.
A few pictures that are planned to go into the manual. Enjoy.
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[*] Images recycled. Most can be found here.
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[*] Images recycled. Most can be found here.
Bright if no 3DP connected, off if 3DP connected but no USB transfer going on, and dim if USB transfers happen.Xamindar wrote:Looking good! What does the LED do? Light up when it is on?
Well, that is the default dessign mounted on a gameport slot bracket. I don't provide them tho, you'll have to hunt for one yourself (if you don't have one). Besides that you need a hole in the PC to route the USB cable to the outside.Fusion wrote:This is def the config I am interested in. Is there anything special to do diffrent w/this config of your adaptor than the default design?
Edit: after some searching -- the ASUS part number for that bracket is 14-000012221. AFAIK the ASUS RMA department sells them. Compudatasystems Frontierpc etc.
[moved]
- SuperSheep
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Assembled the board isn't very sensitive to ESD, esp. if it's hooked up to the USB port (I zapped mine pretty good a few times w/o it even loose a beat ). For transport it's recommended to have it in a bag, just in case.
Actually I ordered a batch, part of the $1 packagingSuperSheep wrote:Yep, that would be an anti-static bag. Probably contained some of the parts Grendel ordered.