So...The other day, I decided it was high time to join the rest of the world and get high speed internet. Went to Best Buy in the morning, and picked meself up a Linksys Cable Modem and Wireless Router along with signing up for Comcast High Speed Internet in-store. After all the rebates, I walked out with the (SIK) Self Install Kit, Cable Modem, High Speed Router for $50 with another rebate for a $50 gift card. Sounds like the beginnings of a great day! Read on...
Got home that night, called Comcast, they told me that they had indeed received notification for adding high speed internet to the account and after telling him my MAC address, told me I was ready to go and I should have no problems installing it with the SIK. So, with a big grin on my face, I set to work plugging the modem into the cable outlet, plugging the other end into the puter and following the little instruction booklets to the letter.
Started the SIK and clicked expectantly on each Next> button hungrily awaiting the power and speed that I knew was waiting for me. Unfortunately after selecting my network card, the Connectivity check failed. So I hit retry... nothing. Ok. Minor setback. Reboot machine check cables, lights, try again, No connectivity.
I'm thinking at this point, no problems, maybe just a delay in the settings taking effect at Comcast or something, waited an hour, tried again, nothing. Checked Device manager, looks good, checked Network connections, looked good. Cable TV still working? Yep. Try again, fail. Alrighty, I'll call my buds at Comcast and we'll figure this out in a jif.
Called them back, explained the situation, and was told that since I used the SIK, I would have to call another number. No biggie, at least it'd all be over soon. Talked to someone there and we went through all the settings, cables, and so on. They asked if the Cable LED came on. I told them no. Told me that it was supposed to. At this point she asked if I wanted to schedule a tech to come out. I asked if I could cancel if we could solve the issue b4 then, she said yes, and I scheduled the appointment.
After hanging up, I couldn't help but feel that it was "possible" that the cable modem might be the problem, and not wanting to pay Comcast $50 to find that out, I went back to Best Buy, and grabbed another Linksys cable modem. Called Comcast and had them enter the new MAC address and disable the first. Then set off to install. It did the exact same thing as the first, BUT when I went to disconnect it, it sounded like something was loose inside. When I shook it, it sounded like a baby's rattle. o_O
Back to Best Buy.
(On a related note, my girlfriend decided on the 2nd trip to buy a laptop, heh)
Anyways... Decided Linksys is pulling a 3Com(=sux) so grabbed a DLink Cable modem and brought it home.
Called Comcast again, got the 3rd MAC address added, first 2 removed, and started installing. This time, I got the cable light to blink Orange, then go steady Orange(means it detected downstream frequency and locked) but it wouldn't go green. So, I checked cables, settings, everything looked ok, and certainly, the now present Cable LED was a promising hope that I had nailed this problem. Right? Please?
Well, I called Comcast back and was on the phone with a guy for literally an hour and a half. The funny thing was, he kept telling me that the IP address that was assigned(192.168...) was actually a router IP and simply would not believe that this was a plain vanilla cable modem. So I told him to please check to make sure that I actually had HSI added to my account. After a few minutes...
"I'm sorry sir, I don't see that service on your account. It looks like it was activated, and then de-activated."
Ok. So I'm thinking WTF! but I'm also thinking Yippee! because although the last 4 hours I'll never get back, at least we've nailed the problem, right?
Well, after adding HSI, we went back to trying to get the modem to connect. Nothing would do it, and the pesky IP would stay at 192.168....
So after telling me that the service call was my only option, I went to DLink's site and found that there was a firmware update for my modem and for Comcast users specifically. Yay?
So, I updated the firmware and much to my surprise the IP actually changed to 169...
Finally, I'm thinking, we're getting somewhere. So I called Comcast back and explained everything again(which is beginning to take 15 mins in and of itself) and finally we got down to it. He says he can't see my modem, and can't understand why the setup is not working. We tried power-cycling, resetting, re-installing, etc, etc. Nothing would work.
So basically, after spending ~6 hours on this fricking cable modem, I am left right where I started, waiting til Wed for a tech to come out. Probably only to hear from him that a switch had to be flipped on or something stoopid like that.
And to think after I get all this working, I have to hook up a wireless router to this mess. Yay me.
If anyone has any thoughts on why this wouldn't work, please let me know, and on Wed, I'll let ya all know what Comcast actually does. heh.
HSI Comcast horror story + Question
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SuperSheep
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Wait... your ISP was assigning you a 192.168 address? Doesn't seem likely, because then you'd never be able to access the Internet. If you're checking through winipcfg/ipconfig, you're getting your computer's IP address, which, if it was 192.168.x.x, means that you did in fact buy one of the combo router/cable modems. And 169.x.x.x is the IP address Windows assigns itself when it can't find a DHCP server, meaning that 169.x.x.x is a sign of things moving backwards, not forwards.
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SuperSheep
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Tricord - Thanks, I hope it get's sorted out very soon too.
DCrazy - No, the modem would not connect to Comcast so, it was actually what the modem reported back to my computer. This was through the Network Connections, Properties, Status tab. The 169... address was by Comcast's decription an indication that the modem was in fact now assigning an IP but one that indicates it was not connected. Hope that makes sense
It is just a plain vanilla Cable Modem, no router.
Update - I went to Best Buy and got a Motorola Cable modem because while at Best Buy trying to sort out why I would get so many weird issues, they recommended that I ditch the DLink as they have had many reports of Comcast not working with DLink.
DCrazy - No, the modem would not connect to Comcast so, it was actually what the modem reported back to my computer. This was through the Network Connections, Properties, Status tab. The 169... address was by Comcast's decription an indication that the modem was in fact now assigning an IP but one that indicates it was not connected. Hope that makes sense
It is just a plain vanilla Cable Modem, no router.Update - I went to Best Buy and got a Motorola Cable modem because while at Best Buy trying to sort out why I would get so many weird issues, they recommended that I ditch the DLink as they have had many reports of Comcast not working with DLink.
SuperSheep: "Network Connections" gives you the properties of the NIC card. 169... is the address Windows was automatically assigning for the NIC card, since it was looking for a DHCP server to give it an address and couldn't find one. Were your cable modem connecting properly, Windows would find Comcast's DHCP server and your NIC card would be assigned the address given by it.
The "modem" (unless it's a combo Modem/Router) is really just a network bridge. All it does is convert the Ethernet on your end to MPEG-compatbile data frames on the coax end. Therefore it is incapable of assigning your NIC any sort of IP address. The Comcast tech was either stupid or just simplifying things for you when he said that the modem was "reporting back" a 169... IP.
The "modem" (unless it's a combo Modem/Router) is really just a network bridge. All it does is convert the Ethernet on your end to MPEG-compatbile data frames on the coax end. Therefore it is incapable of assigning your NIC any sort of IP address. The Comcast tech was either stupid or just simplifying things for you when he said that the modem was "reporting back" a 169... IP.
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SuperSheep
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DCrazy - I should have been more specific. I installed the USB driver. Originally the NIC card was reporting the 192... and the USB did as well. I don't know that that matters, but mainly what I was getting at was that the IP was not correct and that it changed and so I assumed I was making some sort of progress, heh.
Update - Got the Motorola Modem installed and lo and behold, it gives the 192... address as well. I spose I am going to have to wait till Wednesday cause it looks like there's no way I'm going toget this running myself
Update - Got the Motorola Modem installed and lo and behold, it gives the 192... address as well. I spose I am going to have to wait till Wednesday cause it looks like there's no way I'm going toget this running myself
Sorry about your troubles
Comcast people on the phone have never seemed too swift. Actually 1 swift, 3 stoners
Dlink I think is getting sued for problematic equipment.
My comcast modem is an RCA/Thomson
You may want to let them install the modem and then tackle wireless router stuff a few days later. I like my linksys
Comcast people on the phone have never seemed too swift. Actually 1 swift, 3 stoners
Dlink I think is getting sued for problematic equipment.
My comcast modem is an RCA/Thomson
You may want to let them install the modem and then tackle wireless router stuff a few days later. I like my linksys
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whuppinboy
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not true. i have their hsi package, and simply plugged the cable into my modem and was surfing like a freak on a 50ft wave. i also hooked my stepkids motorola surfboard modem up the same way w/out having to install their spyware/bloatware.Duper wrote:*sigh*.. hate to say this.. but you are going to have to install the Comcast software to connect. You can uninstall it later. Also, was this modem on thier "recommended" list? That will get you snubbed from thier servers as well.
..I hate comcast....
supersheep, i'm using a toshiba pcx1100 (have had it for 4 years) and hooked a linksys wrt54 wireless router to it w/no issues. comcast hates combo modem/routers and the tech that comes out is probably going to tell you that you need to sign up for the "home networking" package in order to get it to work.
i'm very surprised that the motorola didn't work, is it a surfboard model? what are you LAN settings? nothing should be checked (automatic detect, use automatic configuration script, use proxy). sorry you're stuck in dialup hell
I use a Motorola Surfboard and have had no problems with it.
There was a time when a tech had to come out when the Internet became very unreliable over the course of a couple weeks. When he did, he found some faulty cable wiring and replaced it. Problem went away and they credited me for two weeks of service.
Point this, cable can be subject to a lot of weird and crazy things like noise interference and under-amplification of cable lines. As it's been explained to me, cable Internet operates on a lower frequency on the same line cable television does. So, it's usually the first thing to fizzle when the line is subject to adverse conditions.
There was a time when a tech had to come out when the Internet became very unreliable over the course of a couple weeks. When he did, he found some faulty cable wiring and replaced it. Problem went away and they credited me for two weeks of service.
Point this, cable can be subject to a lot of weird and crazy things like noise interference and under-amplification of cable lines. As it's been explained to me, cable Internet operates on a lower frequency on the same line cable television does. So, it's usually the first thing to fizzle when the line is subject to adverse conditions.
Wait a minnute, I thought upload was in the 5 to 50 mhz range just below the channel sections start, and then after the channels like around 750 mhz and up is the frequendy for the download.Kyouryuu wrote:Point this, cable can be subject to a lot of weird and crazy things like noise interference and under-amplification of cable lines. As it's been explained to me, cable Internet operates on a lower frequency on the same line cable television does. So, it's usually the first thing to fizzle when the line is subject to adverse conditions.
SS try this, make sure that in your Local Area Connections you have DHCP enabled (obviously), and also go into the internet settings in controll panel and make sure you dont have any proxy settings enabled. Im sure after installing that SIK disk it made some changes. Set everything to automatic and default and leave that crap cd alone, you dont need it. Once you do power down your cable modem and router and computer and let them sit for a good minute. Then power up the modem and wait until its done initializing once all the lights light up, then power up the router, and once thats done initializing power up the comptuer and see what happens. Good luck.
TopWop - Generally, yes, return path (upload) is in 5-50mhz region, while the downstream (download) can be anywhere else from channel 2 on up. BUT, they can set either to anywhere they please.
Most Modems come with a diagnostic page, which you can point your browser to, while directly connected to the modem (usually, http://192.168.100.1 )
If you are pulling a 192.168.x.x IP you that is what the modem itself is serving out to you since it isn't online, and hasn't pulled its configuration file from the CMTS.
Alot of times, these pages will tell you your recieve and transmit power to. Your transmit power should not be higher than 55db, if it is, there is a problem, actually, the preffered range for your transmit power is 42-48db. (Rx power, preferrably should be above 0.0db and below 15db (the scale goes from -30.0db to 60.0db+ )
The downstream on the modem is locking, okay, so it can't find the return path, or - The modem can't reach the first amp.
1st - Check the line going from your cable modem, starting with the wallplate - that line should be one of the first lines to come off your drop, preferrably through the thru leg of a DC or a 2way splitter - with no other splitters or anything in front of it. The more splitters, the more loss, the more power it takes for that modem to get back to the amp. Remember, it has to go through the Tap on the pole too, whatever value it may be, which could be anything from 4 to 32db of loss. Sometimes you can look at the tap and see the value from the ground, its got a sticker, usually. (unless your cable is buried, in which case the tap is locked inside a pedistal) You don't want that modem working any harder than it has to.
2) Depending on the cable operators setup - you may have an HP-50 (Hi-Pass 50mhz, it traps out everything below 50mhz), or other return trap on the pole or at the house station (usually inside a plastic box) Usually these are on the pole, though, and the tech will have to remove it before the modem will lock in.
3) Make sure your connectors are in good shape - no kinked cable, shielding not wrapped around center conductor, no corrosion (should be shiny clean) and well crimped (should not be able to pull fitting off, and the white dialectric should meet up with the ring on the inside of the fitting, centerconductor should protrude no more than a couple millimeters beyond the end of the fitting. These can all effect your C/N Ratio (carrier to noise) signal level, etc.. all making that modem work harder. Also - the cable should be RG6 - altho it will work sometimes - Do not run a cable modem through RG59 - period.
4) Ideally, the cable modem outlet should be home run from the modem to the grounding station outside in one piece with no splices. Also, Your cable drop (from the pole to the house), if old, should be replaced with new RG6.
Hope this helps.
Most Modems come with a diagnostic page, which you can point your browser to, while directly connected to the modem (usually, http://192.168.100.1 )
If you are pulling a 192.168.x.x IP you that is what the modem itself is serving out to you since it isn't online, and hasn't pulled its configuration file from the CMTS.
Alot of times, these pages will tell you your recieve and transmit power to. Your transmit power should not be higher than 55db, if it is, there is a problem, actually, the preffered range for your transmit power is 42-48db. (Rx power, preferrably should be above 0.0db and below 15db (the scale goes from -30.0db to 60.0db+ )
The downstream on the modem is locking, okay, so it can't find the return path, or - The modem can't reach the first amp.
1st - Check the line going from your cable modem, starting with the wallplate - that line should be one of the first lines to come off your drop, preferrably through the thru leg of a DC or a 2way splitter - with no other splitters or anything in front of it. The more splitters, the more loss, the more power it takes for that modem to get back to the amp. Remember, it has to go through the Tap on the pole too, whatever value it may be, which could be anything from 4 to 32db of loss. Sometimes you can look at the tap and see the value from the ground, its got a sticker, usually. (unless your cable is buried, in which case the tap is locked inside a pedistal) You don't want that modem working any harder than it has to.
2) Depending on the cable operators setup - you may have an HP-50 (Hi-Pass 50mhz, it traps out everything below 50mhz), or other return trap on the pole or at the house station (usually inside a plastic box) Usually these are on the pole, though, and the tech will have to remove it before the modem will lock in.
3) Make sure your connectors are in good shape - no kinked cable, shielding not wrapped around center conductor, no corrosion (should be shiny clean) and well crimped (should not be able to pull fitting off, and the white dialectric should meet up with the ring on the inside of the fitting, centerconductor should protrude no more than a couple millimeters beyond the end of the fitting. These can all effect your C/N Ratio (carrier to noise) signal level, etc.. all making that modem work harder. Also - the cable should be RG6 - altho it will work sometimes - Do not run a cable modem through RG59 - period.
4) Ideally, the cable modem outlet should be home run from the modem to the grounding station outside in one piece with no splices. Also, Your cable drop (from the pole to the house), if old, should be replaced with new RG6.
Hope this helps.
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SuperSheep
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SuperSheep
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I did some testing of the speed and I got..
~3.3Mbps down
~330kbps up
60ms ping to Comcast.net
Hows that?
Also, Got the wireless router hooked up although I wound up using the Linksys install software cause I couldn't figure out how to configure it myself
Install number 2
At my moms house, we are also looking to get Comcast cable & HSI. I basically have the entire house already wired good. One splitter, in the basement feeding the TV upstairs, and my computers TV Tuner.
But, after calling Comcast, I went outside to have a look at the cable run, and I saw that the cable running to the box is protruding out of the ground in several spots and in one spot, it looks like it got whacked pretty good with a lawnmower. heh.
So, I called Comcast back and they said that a burial team(nice name) would be coming on Monday to replace/repair the cable, but...
The cable installer dude is coming on Thursday, i.e., tomorrow, heh x2.
Now, when I talked to the Comcast guy today about this(at my girlfriends) he said, go out there and cut the cable. Supposedly to force Comcast to reinstall it.
What do you guys think?
~3.3Mbps down
~330kbps up
60ms ping to Comcast.net
Hows that?
Also, Got the wireless router hooked up although I wound up using the Linksys install software cause I couldn't figure out how to configure it myself
Install number 2
At my moms house, we are also looking to get Comcast cable & HSI. I basically have the entire house already wired good. One splitter, in the basement feeding the TV upstairs, and my computers TV Tuner.
But, after calling Comcast, I went outside to have a look at the cable run, and I saw that the cable running to the box is protruding out of the ground in several spots and in one spot, it looks like it got whacked pretty good with a lawnmower. heh.
So, I called Comcast back and they said that a burial team(nice name) would be coming on Monday to replace/repair the cable, but...
The cable installer dude is coming on Thursday, i.e., tomorrow, heh x2.
Now, when I talked to the Comcast guy today about this(at my girlfriends) he said, go out there and cut the cable. Supposedly to force Comcast to reinstall it.
What do you guys think?
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whuppinboy
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