Almost finished with my Solid State Stirrer
- SuperSheep
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Almost finished with my Solid State Stirrer
Recently, I got into an endeavor that will require me to get into chemistry again. The current project requires several pieces of equipment, one of which is a stirrer.
I looked on the web and found that even a low end stirrer runs upwards of $200 and that has very low precision and almost every stirrer I saw on the web used a PC type fan with magnets mounted to it and a speed regulator.
So, I decided to roll my own stirrer, only using solid state components and a PIC micro CPU at the core to regulate speed and generate the necessary quadrature sin wave drive.
Here's a couple snaps (pre-paint job)
With a flask (around half speed)
Just the stirrer
I estimate this unit would have costed around $100 to build if I only bought the components needed. Not bad I think
I looked on the web and found that even a low end stirrer runs upwards of $200 and that has very low precision and almost every stirrer I saw on the web used a PC type fan with magnets mounted to it and a speed regulator.
So, I decided to roll my own stirrer, only using solid state components and a PIC micro CPU at the core to regulate speed and generate the necessary quadrature sin wave drive.
Here's a couple snaps (pre-paint job)
With a flask (around half speed)
Just the stirrer
I estimate this unit would have costed around $100 to build if I only bought the components needed. Not bad I think
- SuperSheep
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- SuperSheep
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Thanks Grendel! I don't need USB just yet, but I spose if I do, I can always convert the joystick code
Thanks Mobius! Actually, I wanted to make an LED array (8 total) that were composed of red/green LED's that would rotate with the field and illuminate a translucent ring of plastic. Supa cool!! Gotta wait until I create the design for the top first though.
The thing actually doing the stirring is called a stir-bar and is nothing more than a teflon coated magnet.
Thanks Mobius! Actually, I wanted to make an LED array (8 total) that were composed of red/green LED's that would rotate with the field and illuminate a translucent ring of plastic. Supa cool!! Gotta wait until I create the design for the top first though.
The thing actually doing the stirring is called a stir-bar and is nothing more than a teflon coated magnet.
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TERRORISM!
Seriously though, good job Sheep.
Seriously though, good job Sheep.
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- SuperSheep
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Thanks for all the great comments guys!
Vulcan...I can't say currently what it's for but, it's not terrorism, heh, quite the opposite. If what I'm getting into works, it will eliminate the dependence on animals in a particular industry. Something that I strongly believe is the right thing to do. I'll be able to say if and when it succeeds.
TG...Thanks, hopefully after I paint it it'll look even cooler.
Vulcan...I can't say currently what it's for but, it's not terrorism, heh, quite the opposite. If what I'm getting into works, it will eliminate the dependence on animals in a particular industry. Something that I strongly believe is the right thing to do. I'll be able to say if and when it succeeds.
TG...Thanks, hopefully after I paint it it'll look even cooler.
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Or get some multi-color LEDs and have them alternate like a marquee.
"One spelling mistake can destroy your life. A Husband sent this to his wife : "I'm having a wonderful time. Wish you were her." - @RobinWilliams
- SuperSheep
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Thanks Jake and Zangareth.
I don't think I'll be wanting to build another one anytime soon. Building it wasn't a whole lot of fun. I started with a steel base which I had to cut and drill to size, then the aluminum sides which are also machined, then epoxied. The coils are hand wound and each consists of 1000 turns of 28 gauge (thin) enameled magnet wire.
The program code actually took a bit longer than I expected and is about 400 lines long.
Lastly, the circuit board is so stuffed full of parts that I don't believe it could hold anymore in some areas. That's probably the one thing I'll be redoing only this time, I'll use a custom fabricated board, which I'll also make myself.
The shame is, the parts only come to $100, but if I were to charge my labor rate, it would come to well over $1000.
Still working on the template for the top. I think I'll paint the whole thing black. I was going to go with the more typical, white, but I think this just has to be black.
I think I'm going to create an animation sequence in PSP to see how the LED's will look first before making that commitment, but I am leaning towards red/green LED's at the moment.
Thanks for all the great replies so far.
I don't think I'll be wanting to build another one anytime soon. Building it wasn't a whole lot of fun. I started with a steel base which I had to cut and drill to size, then the aluminum sides which are also machined, then epoxied. The coils are hand wound and each consists of 1000 turns of 28 gauge (thin) enameled magnet wire.
The program code actually took a bit longer than I expected and is about 400 lines long.
Lastly, the circuit board is so stuffed full of parts that I don't believe it could hold anymore in some areas. That's probably the one thing I'll be redoing only this time, I'll use a custom fabricated board, which I'll also make myself.
The shame is, the parts only come to $100, but if I were to charge my labor rate, it would come to well over $1000.
Still working on the template for the top. I think I'll paint the whole thing black. I was going to go with the more typical, white, but I think this just has to be black.
I think I'm going to create an animation sequence in PSP to see how the LED's will look first before making that commitment, but I am leaning towards red/green LED's at the moment.
Thanks for all the great replies so far.
- SuperSheep
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- SuperSheep
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Re:
Yes master...SuperSheep wrote:Here's an idea of what the LED's would look like...
Whatcha guys think?
- Testiculese
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- SuperSheep
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Nice work... you can get the LED effect you wanted with tristate leds. I have a hardwired version of a circuit using discrete logic that powers 16 tristate leds in a chase circuit I was building for a club years ago. It is a mesmerizing effect.
First a positive pulse is sent lighting the red segment. Next a pulse is sent on the green segment, and then pulses are sent to both segments, causing a yellow/orange colour depending on the frequency of the pulses.
Just use the clock pulse as the input and you would be done. Problem is the circuit is on a breadboard in a storage unit... a very packed one. I cant remember the chip numbers but it did involve octal tri-state logic. Perhaps I'll dig that circuit out and make a schematic so you can see how the logic generates the signals.
I'm sure however the PIC can handle the code to produce the desired effect much easier than a hardwired version.
First a positive pulse is sent lighting the red segment. Next a pulse is sent on the green segment, and then pulses are sent to both segments, causing a yellow/orange colour depending on the frequency of the pulses.
Just use the clock pulse as the input and you would be done. Problem is the circuit is on a breadboard in a storage unit... a very packed one. I cant remember the chip numbers but it did involve octal tri-state logic. Perhaps I'll dig that circuit out and make a schematic so you can see how the logic generates the signals.
I'm sure however the PIC can handle the code to produce the desired effect much easier than a hardwired version.
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Well, I finally got the top template done. Wanted to use a transparency, kinko's said the only machines that they had that could do transparencies was their copiers and that wasn't good enough image quality so I wound up using a paper print sandwiched between two sheets of plastic.
Still have to buff the edges and some minor other things but this project is for the most part a wrap.
Thanks for your many kind and positive comments.
Still have to buff the edges and some minor other things but this project is for the most part a wrap.
Thanks for your many kind and positive comments.
- SuperSheep
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