Sapphire Wolf's miniature(s) lounge
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- Sapphire Wolf
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Sapphire Wolf's miniature(s) lounge
Okay, to make things fair to this forum, I decided to make a thread for my miniatures (for WIPs, and final paintjobs, or Paint Jobs that needs more work.)
In further ado, here's a WIP paintjob of the Highlander IIC miniature in a Clan Wolf Beta scheme, it needs more coats of the top half (tan) by using Vallejo Model Color Dark-Sand and a size 0 brush (sorry, I don't take a photo of the brush for obvious reasons of this section), after that I'll paint the bottom half gray with Testors ModelMaster Acryl Engine-Grey
The primer that I used is a Brush-on Primer from Vallejo
Okay, I need an option (after applying a wash on the basecoat after 2 or 3 coats of each color complete)-
What highlighting technique should I use?
Drybrush
-or-
Panel Highlighting
(No, I am NOT using Enamels on miniatures anymore)
In further ado, here's a WIP paintjob of the Highlander IIC miniature in a Clan Wolf Beta scheme, it needs more coats of the top half (tan) by using Vallejo Model Color Dark-Sand and a size 0 brush (sorry, I don't take a photo of the brush for obvious reasons of this section), after that I'll paint the bottom half gray with Testors ModelMaster Acryl Engine-Grey
The primer that I used is a Brush-on Primer from Vallejo
Okay, I need an option (after applying a wash on the basecoat after 2 or 3 coats of each color complete)-
What highlighting technique should I use?
Drybrush
-or-
Panel Highlighting
(No, I am NOT using Enamels on miniatures anymore)
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Here's Day 3 of the WIP (since Day 1 is the Brush-on Primer stage and Day 2 is the top basecoat) (needs more coats though)-
(Man that looks ugly, but the wash and Drybrush highlight will cure that problem (after more coats)
(Man that looks ugly, but the wash and Drybrush highlight will cure that problem (after more coats)
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It's standing on one of the Iron Wind Metals ink bottles that I don't use. but above the bottle and below the miniature, is a hexbase from Iron Wind Metals that I glued the mini onto.
Here's what I did-
I added a small ring of tack putty on the Ink bottle and place the miniature on the top of the putty and ink bottle.
Here's what I did-
I added a small ring of tack putty on the Ink bottle and place the miniature on the top of the putty and ink bottle.
Dev'Art-
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I'm using one of these for reference of the paint job.
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- Sapphire Wolf
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Okay, here's the final paintjob (the cockpit/canopy blend may not be a looker though):
(I forgot to add the other days (e.g. days 4 and 5 and so on) due to the fact I was busy at Thursday's Flash Class at College (which is important first)
(my decals for kill marks didn't arrive yet from FightingPirannhaGraphics.com)
(I forgot to add the other days (e.g. days 4 and 5 and so on) due to the fact I was busy at Thursday's Flash Class at College (which is important first)
(my decals for kill marks didn't arrive yet from FightingPirannhaGraphics.com)
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Yeah, I forgot to retrace the cockpit lines with a scraping tool (before the primer and paint) to make the lines deeper so it would be easier to figure out where the canopy is.
Thanks for the tip though.
I'll do better next time with the canopy (or if I decided to get another one )
(No, I'm not using Enamels! I only used Acrylic paints)
(here's the Battletech Wiki link to the Highlander IIC-
http://sarna.net/wiki/Highlander_IIC and a sample in miniature form (from heavygauss.com, in a different scheme)) to get the general idea of what the cockpit should look like)
Thanks for the tip though.
I'll do better next time with the canopy (or if I decided to get another one )
(No, I'm not using Enamels! I only used Acrylic paints)
(here's the Battletech Wiki link to the Highlander IIC-
http://sarna.net/wiki/Highlander_IIC and a sample in miniature form (from heavygauss.com, in a different scheme)) to get the general idea of what the cockpit should look like)
One more bit of info as an ex 3d artist:
Always focus most of your time on the eyes and face (or cockpit) of the body. That's where people's eyes go first when they look at your model. If you have a convincing face, the rest of the model can get away with lacking detail.
example:
http://www.etsy-love.com/?p=144
example2 (more time was spent on the eyes/face than the rest of the image):
http://www.patricknagel.com/taf/image_s ... ail&UID=21
Always focus most of your time on the eyes and face (or cockpit) of the body. That's where people's eyes go first when they look at your model. If you have a convincing face, the rest of the model can get away with lacking detail.
example:
http://www.etsy-love.com/?p=144
example2 (more time was spent on the eyes/face than the rest of the image):
http://www.patricknagel.com/taf/image_s ... ail&UID=21
- Sapphire Wolf
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More minis that have been primered with Krylon Black Primer Spray (yes my workspace is a mess, I still need to clean up my WS) and ready to be painted-
They're gonna be painted in red House Kurita, Sword of Light scheme.
From left to right are the following mechs-
WSP-1A Wasp, OTT-7J Ostscout, PXH-1 Phoenix Hawk, BLR-1G Battlemaster.
Just be patient you guys, I'll paint them soon or later.
(they're not done yet though)
They're gonna be painted in red House Kurita, Sword of Light scheme.
From left to right are the following mechs-
WSP-1A Wasp, OTT-7J Ostscout, PXH-1 Phoenix Hawk, BLR-1G Battlemaster.
Just be patient you guys, I'll paint them soon or later.
(they're not done yet though)
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Here's the BLR-1G Battlemaster mech, painted in House Kurita Sword of Light (any of them... I guess) colors. Surprisingly, I forgot to get any of the Sword of Light decals and any Kanji decals (since House Kurita's a Japanese faction of the Inner Sphere).
Dev'Art-
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On the next miniatures in the photo below, they'll be painted in a Clan Wolf Beta Galaxy Scheme-
The Following mechs from left to right are-
Warhammer IIC (old), Gargoyle (Man O War) (resculpt), Jenner IIC (old).
The Following paint that I'm gonna use from left to right are-
(gray)
Testors Model Master Acryl Engine Grey, Vallejo Model Color London Grey, Vallejo Model Color GermanCamo Grey
(Tan)
Vallejo Model Color Dark Sand, Vallejo Model Color Pale Sand, and Vallejo Model Color White
When I get a moment, I'll get to work on painting one of them. But the Warhammer IIC will be first to be painted.
(I'll try to do paint jobs on other miniatures that I have (the ones that are not in this photo) in different schemes other than like Clan Wolf (Beta), House Kurita/Draconis Combine (Sword of Light), or even Wolf's Dragoons Gamma Regiment)
The Following mechs from left to right are-
Warhammer IIC (old), Gargoyle (Man O War) (resculpt), Jenner IIC (old).
The Following paint that I'm gonna use from left to right are-
(gray)
Testors Model Master Acryl Engine Grey, Vallejo Model Color London Grey, Vallejo Model Color GermanCamo Grey
(Tan)
Vallejo Model Color Dark Sand, Vallejo Model Color Pale Sand, and Vallejo Model Color White
When I get a moment, I'll get to work on painting one of them. But the Warhammer IIC will be first to be painted.
(I'll try to do paint jobs on other miniatures that I have (the ones that are not in this photo) in different schemes other than like Clan Wolf (Beta), House Kurita/Draconis Combine (Sword of Light), or even Wolf's Dragoons Gamma Regiment)
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I'm currently taking a break from painting the good-old-fashioned Warhammer IIC (since I have to use the \"un-cure\" debonder to strip the primer and disassembled the miniature due to the fact that the primer came out with bad results (remember, always warm the spray primer can in hot-tap water before using it in the recommended outside temperature). For now, I'm gonna work on the good old fashioned RFL-3N Rifleman by primering it with Testors Model Master Acryl FlatBlack (since it's currently raining here in my town).
here's the photo (please note those little pins (or rather, I used paperclips as pins) are added by me to hold the pieces better)-
I'm not really gonna glue on the arms yet until the paintjob is done.
(I used a technique called pinning when you drill a hole for the pin (or a paperclip or any effective materials) and glue the pin in and drill a hole for the other pieces (like on the arms of the Rifleman in the photo) so the glue will hold the pieces better)
Anywho, I better get to painting!
here's the photo (please note those little pins (or rather, I used paperclips as pins) are added by me to hold the pieces better)-
I'm not really gonna glue on the arms yet until the paintjob is done.
(I used a technique called pinning when you drill a hole for the pin (or a paperclip or any effective materials) and glue the pin in and drill a hole for the other pieces (like on the arms of the Rifleman in the photo) so the glue will hold the pieces better)
Anywho, I better get to painting!
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A failed tempt on a Lyran Guards Scheme (without any LG decals)
Please note that I don't tend to Jewel tiny cockkpits for now.
This is as far as decent that I can go for.
Please note that I don't tend to Jewel tiny cockkpits for now.
This is as far as decent that I can go for.
Dev'Art-
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Youtube-
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WARNING: I'm a furry!
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WARNING: I'm a furry!
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Here's something that I did for fun recently-
I was messing around with the Rommel Tank and I decided to experiment magnets within miniature pieces. Here's how it goes:
I drilled a hole (with a size 1/8 drill bit) within the inserts and ball joints of the pieces of the Rommel Tank miniature deep enough so the magnet will hold and used superglue to glue in the magnets in a proper angle and tada you get a rotatable turret! The miniature sized magnet discs I used are size 1/8 by 1/16 that can be found at magnet4less.
Here are the photos of the results (56k Warning):
(this badboy will be scrubbed down with warm soapy (dish soap) water and an old toothbrush so the pieces will be ready for the primer and paint)
I was messing around with the Rommel Tank and I decided to experiment magnets within miniature pieces. Here's how it goes:
I drilled a hole (with a size 1/8 drill bit) within the inserts and ball joints of the pieces of the Rommel Tank miniature deep enough so the magnet will hold and used superglue to glue in the magnets in a proper angle and tada you get a rotatable turret! The miniature sized magnet discs I used are size 1/8 by 1/16 that can be found at magnet4less.
Here are the photos of the results (56k Warning):
(this badboy will be scrubbed down with warm soapy (dish soap) water and an old toothbrush so the pieces will be ready for the primer and paint)
Dev'Art-
http://sapphirewolf3057.deviantart.com/
Youtube-
http://www.youtube.com/SapphireWolf3057
WARNING: I'm a furry!
http://sapphirewolf3057.deviantart.com/
Youtube-
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WARNING: I'm a furry!
- Sapphire Wolf
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Re:
The answer is yes. I hope the primer (spray) won't affect the magnetic fields of the magnets.Duper wrote:very cool!
will this get painted?
The primer that I use are the Krylon brand of spray Primer.
The glue I use is the Instacure Super Glue (don't worry, I do have the "un-cure" debonder) that I got from my FLHGS (Friendly Local Hobby Game Store)
My Warhammer IIC (old version that is formerly unseen) miniature has been disassembled and pinned and tomorrow moring I'll give it a good scrub of soapy water for the primer (again) and then the paintjob.
Dev'Art-
http://sapphirewolf3057.deviantart.com/
Youtube-
http://www.youtube.com/SapphireWolf3057
WARNING: I'm a furry!
http://sapphirewolf3057.deviantart.com/
Youtube-
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WARNING: I'm a furry!
Re:
Unless you gob it on three inches thick, you should be fine.Sapphire Wolf wrote:The answer is yes. I hope the primer (spray) won't affect the magnetic fields of the magnets.
This is a really awesome idea.