Car Engine Break In Question
Car Engine Break In Question
Here's the deal. I'm looking at getting a new Acura TSX here in the next couple weeks. The problem is I am moving on the 20th from NY to NC. I've figured out the mileage and lets just say its about 750 miles between NY and NC. I'd like to get the TSX before I have to make the drive because my current car, a 1996 Accord, doesn't have cruise control. I've already done the drive twice in the Accord and its not a fun trip without cruise.
My question is, will it hurt the engine to drive it the 750 miles, mostly highway of course, in the span about about 24 hours? Obviously with the new engine I wouldn't be driving it hard and would pay special attention to keeping the RPMs low and things like that. The drive won't be straight through and I will probably drive 350-400 miles the first day and the rest the second day. I will be accompained by a Toyota Highlander which is going to be pulling a tailer which means we will need to stop around the 250 mile mark to get gas so the TSX will get a brief break. Also, with the Highlander we won't be able to go much beyond 70-75mph with the trailer.
Should I wait until I get to NC to buy the TSX? Obviously if I got it before hand I would put some mileage on it first (probably 200-300 miles) so I'm not starting the trip with 10 miles on the odometer. I've seen so many conflicting accounts on what is proper for engine break-in I have no idea what to believe.
Thanks!
My question is, will it hurt the engine to drive it the 750 miles, mostly highway of course, in the span about about 24 hours? Obviously with the new engine I wouldn't be driving it hard and would pay special attention to keeping the RPMs low and things like that. The drive won't be straight through and I will probably drive 350-400 miles the first day and the rest the second day. I will be accompained by a Toyota Highlander which is going to be pulling a tailer which means we will need to stop around the 250 mile mark to get gas so the TSX will get a brief break. Also, with the Highlander we won't be able to go much beyond 70-75mph with the trailer.
Should I wait until I get to NC to buy the TSX? Obviously if I got it before hand I would put some mileage on it first (probably 200-300 miles) so I'm not starting the trip with 10 miles on the odometer. I've seen so many conflicting accounts on what is proper for engine break-in I have no idea what to believe.
Thanks!
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Thanks for the advice so far.
I'm going to be in the Raleigh area. I've already got emails out to pretty much every dealer in NC asking for a price quote. Unfortunately the 2005 models are not out yet and the supply of 2004s has pretty much dried up. The taxes in NC are cheaper for sure, as is registration. That is of little consequence though because I can get a temp 30 day plate in NY and avoid the higher sales tax and registration fees.
I'm looking at the 6 speed manual transmission with the navigation system. Woot!
I'm going to be in the Raleigh area. I've already got emails out to pretty much every dealer in NC asking for a price quote. Unfortunately the 2005 models are not out yet and the supply of 2004s has pretty much dried up. The taxes in NC are cheaper for sure, as is registration. That is of little consequence though because I can get a temp 30 day plate in NY and avoid the higher sales tax and registration fees.
I'm looking at the 6 speed manual transmission with the navigation system. Woot!
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I'm an Auto Tech by trade and I totally agree with what the others have said. Modern engines do not require the "break-in" period we had to go through years ago. However, you should read the owner's manual. Many new cars require oil and filter changes at 500 to 1000 miles. And Cuda's advice is very sound. An extended drive at cruising speed would be very beneficial. And I would suggest changing oil and filter after that drive. I know you're buying a rice rocket, just be careful. The Acura/Honda engines are extremely quiet and, if you don't watch the tach, it's easy to overrev them. Just restrain yourself for a couple thousand miles and you'll be fine. ENJOY!
The official break-in note for my Passat: Don't go over 3/4 max indicated speed. Not sure if they mean vehicle speed or engine speed, but that means it's either stay up 120mph or 4875rpm, both reasonable to assume.
Take it easy, try to vary the revs, but there's not really much necessary, since engines should be mostly broken-in at the factory. Just need everything to settle into place.
Take it easy, try to vary the revs, but there's not really much necessary, since engines should be mostly broken-in at the factory. Just need everything to settle into place.
I've heard so many conflicting reports on this matter. Some say that running a new engine at a constant and static rpm over an extended period of time is bad for the engine. They say it's good to vary the rpms. Others say not to exceed a certain RPM for the first xxxx miles. However I used to know a guy that would take his freshly rebuilt engines out on the highway when they were brand new, bring them up to top speed and hold em there for a number of miles. He swore by this.
If it was me, I'd just do what the manufacturer recommends.
If it was me, I'd just do what the manufacturer recommends.
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The varing rpm thing is to break-in the cam shaft, it takes about 20 minutes to do this.
I don't think there is a break-in period for "engines" anymore, most of that was so the piston rings could "seat" to the cylinder bores. But with todays advanced materials the rings are seated before the car leaves the factory, well, I sould say about 10 seconds after the engine is started.
I had about 20 miles on my Grand Prix when I tested the mph shut-off in the computer, 118mph was the magic number.
But what Pun said is the best advice, "just do what the manufacturer recommends." btw, they can call up how you've been driving through the computer sort of like a flight recorder
I don't think there is a break-in period for "engines" anymore, most of that was so the piston rings could "seat" to the cylinder bores. But with todays advanced materials the rings are seated before the car leaves the factory, well, I sould say about 10 seconds after the engine is started.
I had about 20 miles on my Grand Prix when I tested the mph shut-off in the computer, 118mph was the magic number.
But what Pun said is the best advice, "just do what the manufacturer recommends." btw, they can call up how you've been driving through the computer sort of like a flight recorder
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for the record....
most new cars (certainly any of the cars like Acura, Honda, toyota, lexus, infiniti, nissan....) require almost nothing as far as 'breeak in'
The tollerance on the engine builds is way beyond outstanding.
Normall they still like to change oil after 1000 miles, but is a hanger on as a safety, and nothing more.
Also as far as RPMs, though you shouldn't beat on it, it is bettere to rev it up when under a load (like climbing a hill) than to lug it.
most new cars (certainly any of the cars like Acura, Honda, toyota, lexus, infiniti, nissan....) require almost nothing as far as 'breeak in'
The tollerance on the engine builds is way beyond outstanding.
Normall they still like to change oil after 1000 miles, but is a hanger on as a safety, and nothing more.
Also as far as RPMs, though you shouldn't beat on it, it is bettere to rev it up when under a load (like climbing a hill) than to lug it.
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Allright Peoples -- Here you go... ready
1st 1000 miles
Do not Tow
Do not exceed 55mph
Oil and filter change (this is were they check for excessive metal material)
Dont forget your regular oil change at the 3,000 mile mark(not 4,000 mark)
No matter who the car/truck MFG, these are the general rules worded one way or another(it's for defects)
If you want a POS or a blown engine because of a defect ignore all of the guidelines above
1st 1000 miles
Do not Tow
Do not exceed 55mph
Oil and filter change (this is were they check for excessive metal material)
Dont forget your regular oil change at the 3,000 mile mark(not 4,000 mark)
No matter who the car/truck MFG, these are the general rules worded one way or another(it's for defects)
If you want a POS or a blown engine because of a defect ignore all of the guidelines above
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I'm not going to do anything to my car that has the word 'break' in it. I go WOT outta the dealer's lot... chirpin' thru all the gears.
Every vehicle I test-drove, the sales guy would want to drive and always said 'watch this' and subsequently pulled some nice maneuver with the vehicle.
I've seen engine break-in done by the book and not at all. Both ways, the end result was the same... engines ran fine. (Just my experience, ymmv.)
I suspect that you'll get greater longevity if done by the book.
But it's so much fun, while entering a freeway on-ramp, to hit 100 mph before even getting on the freeway. =P
Every vehicle I test-drove, the sales guy would want to drive and always said 'watch this' and subsequently pulled some nice maneuver with the vehicle.
I've seen engine break-in done by the book and not at all. Both ways, the end result was the same... engines ran fine. (Just my experience, ymmv.)
I suspect that you'll get greater longevity if done by the book.
But it's so much fun, while entering a freeway on-ramp, to hit 100 mph before even getting on the freeway. =P
Thank you everyone for your responses. Unfortunately, as you can undoubtly see from the responses above everyone seems to have their own idea as to how an engine break-in should take place. Which one is right no one will really know.
At the moment I don't even have the car lined up. The few dealers that had 2004 models left on their lots wouldn't deal for them. With the 2005 models due within the next week I wasn't going to pay nearly MSRP for a car that is going to drastically depreciate two weeks after I purchase it.
If I can buy one in New York before the trip I will do that and just make the trip on surface streets as much as possible. If I can't find a good deal within the next 2 weeks, I'll buy in NC thereby avoiding this problem altogether. That then presents another problem and that is how to handle my 1996 Accord. My brother is buying it off me for $2k in cash, but he is back in NY. So the poor car is going to get an extra 1400 miles on it within the next month.
At the moment I don't even have the car lined up. The few dealers that had 2004 models left on their lots wouldn't deal for them. With the 2005 models due within the next week I wasn't going to pay nearly MSRP for a car that is going to drastically depreciate two weeks after I purchase it.
If I can buy one in New York before the trip I will do that and just make the trip on surface streets as much as possible. If I can't find a good deal within the next 2 weeks, I'll buy in NC thereby avoiding this problem altogether. That then presents another problem and that is how to handle my 1996 Accord. My brother is buying it off me for $2k in cash, but he is back in NY. So the poor car is going to get an extra 1400 miles on it within the next month.
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No vette for me, that was a friends car, I haven't had anything fun for quite a while. Lucky for me my best friend collects car so every once in a while I get to take something out for a test beating, like a Z-o6 or 73 challangerJagger wrote:HeheKompresZor wrote:yep, it's a GT It's my wifes car, I tried to talk her into a GTO but she figured that one out pretty quick
Maybe just as well, what with the tweaked version coming out for '05 and plummeting '04 pricing. But you've got a 'Vette or something, right?
You should see some of the ways mechanics will tell you break-in is done.. Most motors are already run-in in the factory.. You really do not want to know how that is done there.. Wide open to the limit.. You engine break-in basically means.. lets get those piston rings seated.. 90% of that is done in the first 20 miles.
I own a 300zx TT. Most engine builders tell it like this start it and do some 'spirited' driving put about 50 miles on it, change the oil. Then do another 500miles driving normal.. Change this oil and then never look back.. T his is the way motorcycle racers do the 'break-in' and they have shown that they end up with higher compression in the engine built run-in this way than the traditional way.. I don't see any reason why a motorcycle would be any different than a car. WTH Get in it, drive it and drive it like you rented it
I own a 300zx TT. Most engine builders tell it like this start it and do some 'spirited' driving put about 50 miles on it, change the oil. Then do another 500miles driving normal.. Change this oil and then never look back.. T his is the way motorcycle racers do the 'break-in' and they have shown that they end up with higher compression in the engine built run-in this way than the traditional way.. I don't see any reason why a motorcycle would be any different than a car. WTH Get in it, drive it and drive it like you rented it