DescentBB

taped to a piece of cardboard? yea

Hmm. Hey, I dont suppose you could hook me up with some of that RAM you got could ya? That would be sweet.

Oh, btw, since you actually have the documentation for the PCDL, does it need Unbuffered-ECC or can it use Unbufffered Non-Ecc?

The ram I got is normal highperformance 3200

The board will take ECC non registered and regular unbuffered

Vindicator wrote:Ace: Some mobos (like our PC-DLs) that use EPS12v PSUs have the 8pin 12v connector rather than the 4pin.

ahhhh....so it uses either the 8 pin for some boards or the 4 pins for others?

Okay, so I am getting ready to do this here mod, and I've also desided to go the 1.55v route. What's the deal with the C3 section? Does this pin need to go bye bye, or is the uwire in this pic supposed to make it so that insulating/removing pin C3 is not needed?

http://www.ctechnet.com/hardware/Asus/P ... A3_Mod.jpg

There is so much crosstalk and opposing info in the 3 or 4 threads I have been reading, I'm not even sure at this point...

eff it, I broke off C3

Thats the pin C3 with respect to the socket (i.e. between the uwires on b2-b3 and e3-f3), right?

(the purple one)

Keep us posted on how it goes. I'm really not keen on breaking off pins, but the wirewrap is givin me heck.

Oh yeah, they shipped my heatsinks so they should be here Tuesday

yea, that's the one. Doing the hoses now for water

ahh what a long day. Helping a bro mod and working on this xeon sys. All the water and whatnot is running smooth. I mentioned earlier that I was doing the 1.55 volt settings as well. They only netted me 1.50 volts. So no go on the 14x200. 14x133 and 165 were fine, but I'll need to re-do the u jumpers tomorrow for another go at 200 FSP. I'll go for 1.6 volts this time.

More later.

STRESSTEST wrote:I mentioned earlier that I was doing the 1.55 volt settings as well. They only netted me 1.50 volts. So no go on the 14x200. 14x133 and 165 were fine, but I'll need to re-do the u jumpers tomorrow for another go at 200 FSP. I'll go for 1.6 volts this time.

Interesting. I've read that the PC-DL undervolts, but thats quite a bit. What about your Vdimm? I have a Pomona SMD grabber coming in Monday so I'll be doing the Vdimm mod then. My Corsair XMS likes about 2.8 volts on my NF7-S.

Wooohooo! Success!

14x200 posts no problem. I still need to install an OS but the temps are awesome.

About the volt mod for the 1.3 to 1.6;

When I used the U-Mod for 1.55 it gave me exactly 1.5 and no dice on 200 FSB. After redoing it for 1.6v (b2-b3 and d2-d3) the bios show 1.55volts now. About every 20 seconds it flickers to 1.56v. So I guess this is the sweet spot.

Pics in a few minutes.

Okay, here are the temps at 14x100 with the 1.6volt mod showing 1.55 volts actual. And the tight tollerances to spec that Fortron provides with it's PSU's


FSB and ram settings first boot after 1.6v mod



Successful re-boot after jumper change to 200 FSB manual setting



Post and running temps after overclock 15 minutes



I'd say that 29 and 28 degrees Celsius is pretty good

28 and 29 Celsius is excellent ... My Koolance rig runs around 29 to 30 C when idle. When folding it runs up to somewhere between 34C and 39C.

BTW: I can't see your pix ...

reload? They are teh working here

Just talked to another person having an issue with the pics

It is a DNS server. Replace the link (stresstest.2y.net) with 66.58.11.203 and they will work

Well Stress, once you get everything working I think I'll start work on mine. I might go for water cooling tho, just so I dont have to worry about finding decent fan powered heat sinks. You got a link to the water coller youre using in that pic stress?

Those are the cooling guts out of a Koolance case

www.koolance.com

stress, your system is on water cooling, but i see CPU Fan RPM showing speeds?

did you connect the system fans to the CPU headers

Ok, so I'd need two blocks, two sets of Socket 604 adaptors, some 6mm tubing, a pump, and a radiator. I dont see any pumps or proper sized radiators in there (Either that or theyre buried and I'm not diggging hard enough). What pump/Radiator are you using? Heh

I feel like such a newb.

For those of you that canot see the pix above ...

STRESSTEST wrote:Okay, here are the temps at 14x100 with the 1.6volt mod showing 1.55 volts actual. And the tight tollerances to spec that Fortron provides with it's PSU's


FSB and ram settings first boot after 1.6v mod



Successful re-boot after jumper change to 200 FSB manual setting



Post and running temps after overclock 15 minutes

[img]http://66.58.11.203%20/images/dbb/P9191938.jpg[/img] [img]http://66.58.11.203%20/images/dbb/P9191939.jpg[/img]

I'd say that 29 and 28 degrees Celsius is pretty good

AceCombat wrote:stress, your system is on water cooling, but i see CPU Fan RPM showing speeds?

did you connect the system fans to the CPU headers

Yes, the case has dual 80's on the back.

Avder wrote:Ok, so I'd need two blocks, two sets of Socket 604 adaptors, some 6mm tubing, a pump, and a radiator. I dont see any pumps or proper sized radiators in there (Either that or theyre buried and I'm not diggging hard enough). What pump/Radiator are you using? Heh

I feel like such a newb.

Order a case, 2 CPU blocks, and a north bridge cooler if you like. Then you will have everything. Their cases come pre-equiped with the rad, rez(pumps are in this) and tubing

Those Cases are spendy and dont include blocks. I was actually looking for something more along the lines of do-it-yourself with koolance blocks.

Do it yourself would mean that you would be using either 3/8" or 1/2" since that's what all the other stuff out there uses. Koolance are bases on a 1/4" system. The site will talk about a block there using 3/8" 10mm hose but they are talking about the OD (Outside dimension) not the ID (inside dimension) like everyone else in the industry. Don't get confused there. Their 3/8" are actually 1/4" ID @ Koolance.



They offer 1 block in 1/2" however.
http://www.koolance.com/products/produc ... egory_id=3
Out of stock of course

If you wanted to build one similar to the way I have here is the shopping list you will need:

Control Board: http://www.koolance.com/products/produc ... egory_id=5
Display Board: http://www.koolance.com/products/produc ... egory_id=5
Clamps, 2 per items being put in the loop: http://www.koolance.com/products/produc ... egory_id=5
Temp Sensor: http://www.koolance.com/products/produc ... egory_id=5
CPU Coolers x 2: http://www.koolance.com/products/produc ... egory_id=3
VGA and Northbridge cooler(up to you): http://www.koolance.com/products/produc ... egory_id=3
Hard drive cooler(up to you): http://www.koolance.com/products/produc ... egory_id=3
coolant (two fills per bag): http://www.koolance.com/products/produc ... egory_id=5
Reservoir w/ Pumps: http://www.koolance.com/products/produc ... egory_id=5
Radiator: http://www.koolance.com/products/produc ... egory_id=5
Tubing by the foot: http://www.koolance.com/products/produc ... egory_id=5
Low volt startup fans x 3: http://www.koolance.com/products/produc ... egory_id=5
Fan Grills x 3: http://www.koolance.com/products/produc ... egory_id=5

Some things not on the site that are needed are listed below. Calling them could get them:

x 4 long bolts, nut, rubber washer, steel washer that hold the radiator to the Shrouds/fans/grills.
x 3 Rubber Fan Shrouds
x 8 Coarse thread Fan Screws

There is always going with kits like offered here:
http://www.crazypc.com/products/cooling ... ooling.htm
Or others offered by
Danger Den, D-Tek Custom, Asetech, Thermochill and Innovatek

haha, have fun

Or you could just get an Exos with 2 CPU blocks

edit: http://www.tomshardware.com/cpu/20040920/index.html

Got my heatsinks in today, but I have a test tomorrow to study for. So hopefully tomorrow evening I'll have this beast up and running.

I bought some 30 gauge wire from Radio Shack, stripped it, and used the wrap to insulate C3 (took a bit to get it on there with some tweezers). Remains to be seen if it will work, but at least I didnt have to break it off.

It lives!

First time I started it up I got the nice lady in the computer telling me there was a CPU error. I about ★■◆● my pants, but I calmed down and yanked CPU2 and tried it, and it worked. Went into the BIOS and discovered (after hunting for the hardware monitor for about 10 minutes) that it was running at .9 volts. I figured that was where the problem was, since C3 on CPU2 was still insulated when I yanked it. Sure enough, the C3 wirewrap on CPU1 had gotten smooshed when I installed it, so it wasnt insulating as it should.

Tried and tried to get C3 reinsulated on CPU1, but gave up and broke it off. Popped it back in and it worked! Both CPUs are at 1.55-1.56 volts now (so now I have one insulated C3 and one broken C3, heh.) Gonna have to do the Vdimm mod tonite before I crank up the speed, but at least the damn thing works.

(side note: the AS5 that I used had bonded CPU1 and the heatsink so tightly that when I took off the heatsink it ripped the processor right out of the socket!)

Vdimm mod?

http://www.datamine.tk/overclocking/adv ... mm_mod.htm

Read and learn. Heck, before you do anything to your board just go to that site and absorb everything. Theres a bunch of stuff you can do to that board, depending on how fast you want to go and how destructive you feel. The nice thing about the Vdimm mod and the u-wire trick is that theres no permanent alteration to the board.

Wait, if your ram is designed to run at the default voltage provided, why would you need this mod?

Because default voltage on this board is 2.5v (actual readings are slightly less). Most high performance memory sticks need more than that to run at higher speeds and lower latency. My Corsair memory defaults at 2.6v (according to Newegg), and they're happiest when given 2.7-2.8. Stress's defaults at 2.75v.

A lot of boards let you change this in the BIOS, the PC-DL does not. Hence, this mod was born.

It wont boot at 200fsb. I tried setting the jumper to 200 and no love. I tried yanking all the jumper caps off and holding down insert, and it boots at 166 with 200 showing in the BIOS, but after saving and rebooting it doesnt POST. This was with the RAM at 2.95v (accidentally shot up to 3.1 when I was tuning it, heh) so I'm hesitant to go higher. I'll try fiddling with the memory timings. Theyre currently at 2-3-3-7. Any other suggestions? I'd hate to be stuck at 2.65ghz

2.65 (166x16) was all I was gonna shoot for when I was planning on using fan cooling. Ive decided to go water cooling so that I can safely try for 3.2GHz.

After doing the Vdimm mod I was measuring the resistance of the 50k POT i was using and I accidentally shorted it out. It would seem I fried one of my 512mb sticks of Corsair XMS. Oddly enough, with that stick out of the PC it boots now at 14x200 (2.8ghz) at 2.7v no problem. Maybe the stick I fried was partly bad anyway?

Thank goodness for lifetime warranties

Well I got some bad news. Real life (huh? Whats that?) demands that I keep enough cash on hand to be abel to live through January, so barring any sudden cash infusion, I'm going to have to do without the glory of a Dual Xeon Comp until then. Come January I will be able to completely build this thing with liquid cooling and all the fixings with 1 GB of high performance DDR AS WELL as get a 6800 or better card to stick in it. It will then become my ultra gaming machine. So yeah, unless I get like $400 more I'm stuck without the Xeon comp. I will be getting some of its parts tho, noteably the Motherboard and Hard Drive.

Sounds to me like you have your priorities in the right order. Good luck bro!

Well at least I have the processors

Today I am going to be ordering a new hard drive, a new case for my oldest comp, and the PC-DL Mobo provided its in stock. I'll probably try to pick up the parts for the Vdimm mod as well sometime when I go to radioshack. Anyone want to reccomend a specific pot style?

Kinda off topic guys, but hearing all the talk about cooling systems has made me wonder. My system temperature hovers around 55 C idle, and up to 65 working. Is that too hot? I've been running this way for about 2-3 years now.

Also, would you guys want a 1.3 GHZ system running part time? I can set it folding when I don't have anything better to do with it...

I guess I didnt completely fry my stick of RAM, because I let it sit for a few days and tried it and it worked great in memtest and Prime95, even at 2-3-3-6 timings (albeit only at 165fsb). The quest for 200fsb continues!

Stryker wrote:Kinda off topic guys, but hearing all the talk about cooling systems has made me wonder. My system temperature hovers around 55 C idle, and up to 65 working. Is that too hot? I've been running this way for about 2-3 years now.

Also, would you guys want a 1.3 GHZ system running part time? I can set it folding when I don't have anything better to do with it...

Its pretty warm, yeah, but if its stable its not hurting anything. Try adding a case fan or two, it works wonders. Folding will really make it heat up, so you will need better ventilation before trying to Fold. (we dont want to melt anyone's computer, even if it is in the name of science)

And yeah, we'd be happy to have you on board

Avder: Radioshack doesnt have the pincer style SMD grabber, they only have the hook type. I got mine from outpost.com. I got a 50k pot and a small project box at Radioshack though, they work pretty well. I tore up a broken SATA cable and used the wires out of it, and soldered the whole shebang together.

You sure have a pretty hand lol

Hm, pincer style SMD Grabber and a project box. Good idea. Then where do I hook the ground up at?