DescentBB

okay, i dont have a electric sander.

i am a very heavy 3m paper user. what is the best grit number to use on a HS. im wanting to veer in the 1200-1600 grit area, but im just wondering what is the best number grit to use


one of my brothers friend's younger brother is a newbie hardware junkie like most of us. i offered my sanding skills from 4 years auto-body experience in high school.

whats wrong with the heat sink that it would need to be buffed?

ace you're looking for a lapping guide..

and stop with the ego. it makes you look like a cockmaster.

he's not a cockmaster he's a cat-plugmasta

Lapping a HS doesn't actually sound like that good of an idea, BTW...but I suppose if you need every edge, what the hell

Only YOU will know your HS is polished on the underside.

thats the info i need Perfect thank you.

FERNO STFU!!

Ferno wrote:ace you're looking for a lapping guide..

and stop with the ego. it makes you look like a cockmaster.

ROFLMAO AceCockMaster©

Bubba STFU....and you wonder why everyone hollars at you for trolling after my troll posts

You will need to start at a grade which is appropriate to the original finish of the HSF. Wet and Dry is compulsory, with LOTS of water. You'll also need a piece of plate glass with some form of foam backing to do the lapping on.

You need to increase the grade number slowly, until you're using something which is simply a polisher.

But dude, lemme tell ya - it's a waste of time - and uless you are very physically co-ordinated, and prepared to invest a few hours and some very sore arms, you aren't gonna get any benefit from it.

Mobius wrote:Wet and Dry is compulsory, with LOTS of water. You'll also need a piece of plate glass with some form of foam backing to do the lapping on.



But dude, lemme tell ya - it's a waste of time - and uless you are very physically co-ordinated, and prepared to invest a few hours and some very sore arms, you aren't gonna get any benefit from it.

mobius.......

AceCombat wrote:i offered my sanding skills from 4 years auto-body experience in high school.

i know how to sand by hand. how many cars have you painted in your life? ive painted 12 so far. i painted those bodies started from nothing but the anti-rust protective layer upto 3 coats of base/color and 2 coats of diamond clear coat. ive stripped cars from everything to nothing but bare metal. i know what wet sanding is, i know it takes a constant water source, i know how much coordination it takes, and my arms take alot more than just sanding to make them as sore as you are stating. ive wet-sanded car bodies for hours at a time.

But, did you read the part where mobius said it was a waste of time?

It is. you are not doing anything that will improve the heat conductivity of the heatsink.

Odd.

He asks for advice on how to sand a heat sink (despite his possession of, no doubt, vast knowledge/experince when it comes to sanding cars). Upon receiving the advice, the lauches into this harangue about how he doesn't need advice because he knows so much about sanding cars.

no, i just didnt need advice on how to sand. besides.......

thats the info i need Perfect thank you.

my answer was already found.

and to answer many questions, this particular HS does have a few ugly scratches from the young one trying to scrape off the thermal pad with a flathead screwdriver. this is why i want to sand it down and make it smooth like it once was.

no but you are creating more contact area Flip. you can have a cooler that can chill a CPU to -400 but if the total surface contact area is about the size of a pin head it's not gonna do much good.

Ferno wrote:no but you are creating more contact area Flip. you can have a cooler that can chill a CPU to -400 but if the total surface contact area is about the size of a pin head it's not gonna do much good.

huh?

the size of the CPU isn't going to change.

lapping, if done properly, shouldn't change the surface area of the contact side of the heatsink. If you are removing scratches, then you are reducing the surface area.

remember, we use thermal paste. that'll fill in any gaps on the contact side of the surface, including scratches.

lapping only makes it look nicer. its like... adding a spoiler to a 87 626.

how would sanding something down to remove scratches reduce the surface area?

im just making it smooth again for him so that the heat spreader on his P-4 makes full and uniform contact with the heatsink

because when metal gets scratched/dented it stretches. hence creating more surface area.

The only thing you really have to worry about is applying a quality thermal paste in this case. now if you're using crappy old white goop, lapping couldn't hurt since the heat trasfer ability of white goop is pathetically low.

AceCombat wrote:i know how to sand by hand. how many cars have you painted in your life? ive painted 12 so far. i painted those bodies started from nothing but the anti-rust protective layer upto 3 coats of base/color and 2 coats of diamond clear coat. ive stripped cars from everything to nothing but bare metal. i know what wet sanding is, i know it takes a constant water source, i know how much coordination it takes, and my arms take alot more than just sanding to make them as sore as you are stating. ive wet-sanded car bodies for hours at a time.

Was all this between cruises as a fighter jock?

Little advice Ace, don't ask for help then hammer those who give it too you. Mobius didn't know you knew this stuff. Drop the attitude.

"the size of the CPU isn't going to change."

I know that Flip. I was talking about the surface area on the cooler

Dedman wrote:Little advice Ace, don't ask for help then hammer those who give it too you. Mobius didn't know you knew this stuff. Drop the attitude.

AceCombat wrote: one of my brothers friend's younger brother is a newbie hardware junkie like most of us. i offered my sanding skills from 4 years auto-body experience in high school.

then he should have read, that i already have sanding experience and stop skimming like everyone says people do.


not trying to be a smartass here, but the things you guys bash and scream at me for, you do the exact same thing and expect to get away with it.....?

thats a two way street with no detours on one side.

Ya know Ace, a simple "Thanks for the advice Mobi, I'll keep it in mind" would have been sufficient and would have prevented this thread from veering off course as it has.

When someone trys to help you out, its generally considered bad karma to throw it back in their face. Just swallow your pride and be courteous for once

fliptw wrote:But, did you read the part where mobius said it was a waste of time?

It is. you are not doing anything that will improve the heat conductivity of the heatsink.

But.....it'll run it 1 degree cooler! [/sarcasm]

Seriously though, I agree with flip here. All you're doing is turning the bottom of your heatsink into a mirror. Thats it. You're not going to see any benefit from this so unless you're willing to ruin a perfectly good heatsink....

im not going to make it smooth as a mirror. im just going to take out the scratches and make it flat.

Sanding a car is different than sanding a heatsink. If it's scratched visibly, or horrendously from some fool using a screwdriver, educate said fool in the use of iso alcohol, and get a new heatsink.

Sorry Ace, I normally don't throw you under the bus but in this case you are being a ★■◆●ing idiotic ass.

Testiculese wrote: If it's scratched visibly, or horrendously from some fool using a screwdriver, educate said fool in the use of iso alcohol, and get a new heatsink.

i did tell him how to remove thermal goop properly, after he showed me that.